Home ownership is a large piece of the American Dream, and for good reason. Your home is far more than a place to live: Its your own piece of the world, a space which represents your investment in your future and in the future of the community where you live.

More than anything else you own, your home becomes an extension of your personality. As you live there, your home begins to reflect your lifestyle, your values, your imagination, and your pride.

Air–Conditioning System — If your house has a central air&conditioning system, the following information can help you get the maximum benefit from it.Registers&The registers help to regulate the flow of air and to maintain the desired temperature. By opening and closing the registers and dampers, you can regulate the amount of cool air that enters a room. Closing registers and doors to rooms not in use is a good way to reduce cooling costs. Filters–The A/C filter should be replace in a monthly basis to maintain proper air flow and operation of the system.

Insulation — Your home has been insulated so that you can regulate the inside temperature in a cost–effective manner. Open doors, windows, and fireplace flues, along with clogged filters can negate the effects of insulation and cause inadequate cooling (or heating).

Appliances — If an electric appliance fails to operate, be sure it is plugged in before you call a repair service. If the appliance is separately wired, be sure the circuit breaker is on. If a gas appliance fails to work, check to see if the pilot light is lit. If you suspect a gas leak, turn off the main gas valve near the meter and call the gas company immediately. Warning: Do not light matches or smoke cigarettes in the vicinity of the suspected leak.

Attics — Attics, or spaces immediately below roofs, vary in size from crawl spaces to areas large enough to be converted into extra rooms.

Storage–Attic — Storage-Attic spaces are commonly used for storage, but you should be careful not to put too much strain on your attic floor. Typically, it can handle 20–30 pounds per square foot, so you should not store large heavy objects on it (such as a stack of boxes of books).

Insulation — Your home has been constructed with insulating materials.  Make sure that materials stored in the attic do not compress the insulation because compressed insulation is less effective.

Louvers
Your attic may have louvered openings to allow warm, moist air to escape.

Bathtubs, Sinks, and Showers
Bathtubs, sinks, and showers are made of a variety of materials. Tubs are most frequently made of porcelain enamel on cast iron or steel, or of fiberglass–reinforced plastic. Bathroom sinks are usually made of porcelain enamel on cast iron, steel, or marble resin. Showers are most frequently made of ceramic tile, fiberglass–reinforced plastic, or molded plastic. Kitchen sinks are generally made of enamel or stainless steel. Laundry tubs or sinks are usually made of fiberglass or plastic

To prolong the life of bathtubs and sinks, follow these precautions:

• Do not let food wastes stand in the sink. If you have a garbage disposal, dispose of food waste as it accumulates. If you do not have a disposal, put the waste in an appropriate container.
• Do not use bathtubs or sinks to hold paint cans, trash, or tools when you are redecorating; cover them when painting walls and ceilings.
• Do not step in a tub with shoes on for any reason. Shoe soles carry hundreds of gritty particles that will scratch the surface.
• Do not use bathtubs or sinks as receptacles for photo–graphic or developing solutions.

Porcelain Enamel — The surfaces of these fixtures are smooth and glossy like a mirror. Carelessness may cause chipping, scratches, and stains. A blow from a heavy or sharp object will chip the surface, and scraping or banging metal utensils will gradually scratch and dull the surface. To clean use nonabrasive cleaners.

Food Stains — For most food stains, use a mild solution of chlorine bleach (about 3 tablespoons to a quart of water), and rinse well. For stubborn stains–wait 5 minutes before rinsing. (Do not use chlorine bleach on stainless steel)

Mildew — Mildew can occasionally appear in bathrooms and other areas that collect water vapor. An exhaust fan should always be used during baths and showers to help remove water vapor. After bathing or showering it is a good idea to wipe condensation from tiles.
To eliminate mildew, use a mildew agent (available in liquid spray) and then use a disinfectant to retard mildew growth and eliminate odor. Mildew may be cleaned from walls and tiles with the following solution:

Paint — Most oil–based paint will come off easily with turpentine. Water–base paint will come off with a cloth dampened in liquid household cleaner. Small paint spots may be removed by scraping with a razor blade, but you run the risk of gouging the surface. To prevent this, be sure the blade is slanted against the fixture. Any residue can be removed with heavy–duty liquid household cleaner.

Rinse thoroughly after using any of these.

Scum — To remove a scum of grease and soap made insol–uble by hardwater minerals, clean the fixture with a solution of vinegar and water. These solutions work well on shower doors and shower door tracks.

Rust Stains — Rust stains are caused mostly by wet metal utensils left on the surface of the sink. Also, steel wool soap pads will rust and stain when wet and should be kept in an appropriate container. To remove the stains, use a commercial powdered rust remover and follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully. Do not get the rust remover on the chrome’plated fittings.

Stainless Steel — Stainless steel fixtures generally resist staining and require a thorough scrubbing only occasionally. Use a nonabrasive cleanser or a commercial stainless steel cleaner.

Glass Shower Enclosures or Stalls — To clean glass shower enclosures, an ordinary dishwashing detergent (not soap)

Caulking — If the caulking around your bathtub or sink should dry out or crack after several years, remove the old caulking and replace it.

Blinds — Before raising venetian blinds, be sure that the slats are in the open position. Blinds may be permanently damaged if they are raised when the slats are closed.  Dust will cause the finish of your blinds to deteriorate. Clean the slats often with a soft cloth. Oc–casionally the blinds will need to be taken down and washed thoroughly. You should also periodically replace the tapes and cord.

Cabinets — Kitchen and bathroom cabinets (or vanities) should never be cleaned with harsh abrasives. Countertops are generally heat and stain resistant under proper care, but they should be protected from hot irons as well as pots, pans, or baking dishes taken directly from an oven, broiler, or burner. Countertops and cabinets made of plastic–coated wood or metal may be cleaned with a detergent solution. Wood cabinets may be cleaned as any other wood furniture unless they are plastic coated.

Chopping Blocks — If a section of your work surface is unfinished wood, it will require special care. To protect it from spills, coat it lightly with olive oil (including the edges), let the oil soak in for a few minutes, and then rub it dry with a paper towel or a soft lintless cloth. Several thin coats will provide better protection than one heavy coat. To remove onion, garlic, or other odors, rub the surface with a slice of citrus fruit (lemon, orange, etc.), sprinkle lightly with salt, and wipe it immediately with a soft cloth or paper towel. Clean it with a mild bleach solution once a week and also after cutting raw meat on it. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry. If you do not have a built-in chopping block, buy a portable chopping block or cutting board to protect your countertops and drainboards.

Circuit breakers — Circuit breakers protect the electrical wiring and equipment in your home. They are the safety valves of your home’s electrical system.  Circuit breakers may be reset by first switching the breaker to full off and then back to full on.

Power Failures — In case of a complete power failure, first determine if your neighbors have power. If not, notify the power company. If the power failure affects only your house, check the master switch and circuit breakers. If one circuit breaker continues to trip, check to see if you have overloaded the circuit. If not, call an electrician. The chan­ces are that a short circuit needs to be fixed before it causes a fire.

Disposals — if you have a garbage disposal, it will probably be one of two types: continuous feed or batch feed with locking cover.  Many people erroneously conclude that because their waste disposal is capable of grinding up most of their garbage, it is also capable of eliminating grease and other substances they would not otherwise pour down a drain. In fact, you should be equally careful not to clog disposal drains with grease. When grinding greasy substances, use plenty of cold water. Always use cold water when the disposal is on: Should the drain become clogged, do not put chemicals down the disposal

Reset Buttons — Most disposals have a reset button that works in much the same way as a circuit breaker. Should the disposal become overloaded with a substance it cannot grind, it will turn itself off. If this happens, turn the switch off, remove the substance obstructing the disposal’s operation, wait about 3 minutes, push the reset button, and turn the switch on. If it still does not start, turn it off again and check to see if you have tripped a circuit breaker. If the circuit breaker has not interrupted the flow of current, trip the circuit breaker and use a mop or broom handle to turn the rotating plate in the disposal until it turns freely. Restore current, push the reset button again, and turn the disposal switch on. Some disposals come equipped with a special wrench that can be inserted in a hole in the bottom of the disposal (under the sink). Others have a two–pronged wrench that fits in the top of the circulating plate. Turning the wrench a couple of times will usually loosen the material enough so that the disposal will start.  Avoid putting large amounts of fibrous materials (such as banana peels or corn husks) down your disposal. Warning: Be absolutely sure the circuit breaker is off before inserting your hand to remove material when the disposal is stalled. Also be sure it is off before using the wrench or a broomstick.
Doors
From time to time, some doors can develop minor problems.

Sticking — Sticking is the most common problem with doors. If the sticking is caused by swelling in damp weather, fold sandpaper around a wooden block and sand the edge that binds. If the hinge screws are tight and the door is still out of alignment, sand or plane the edge that binds.

Weatherstripping — To maintain your home’s energy efficiency, exterior doors come equipped with weather stripping made from a variety of materials, including metal, plastic, and rubber. This weather stripping must remain properly in place to prevent the loss of expensively conditioned air or infiltration of outside air. Metal weather stripping may need to be renailed if it becomes loose, bent out away from the edge of the door, if it does not seal tightly when he door is closed. This repair is a simple process that requires only a hammer or pliers.

For rubber or plastic weather stripping, regluing or renailing should be all that is necessary. For regluing, use a strong, water-resistant household glue. Do not use a super glue.

Locks–If the security of your home is a concern, consider these items before installing additional locks to your doors:

• Locks should be located so that they cannot be reached by breaking a small windowpane in the door.
• Locks that require a key on the inside are potentially dangerous if an emergency occurs. When this type of lock is used, be sure a spare key is always handy to prevent anyone from being trapped inside the house.
• Installation of any locks or chains will be most secure if the screws and blots used for attachment go all the way through the door or frame and cannot be removed from the outside.
• A metal insulated door may require the services of an expert to properly install new locks. (See also "Security Systems.")

Drains — Each pumbing fixture in your house has a drain trap. This RI–shaped piece of pipe is designed to provide a water barrier that prevents the airborne bacteria and odor of sewer gas from entering the house. Any fixture that is used infrequently (such as a basement shower) should be turned on at regular intervals to replace evaporating water and ensure that the barrier remains intact. Because of their shape, traps are also the source of most clogging problems.

Bathtubs, Sinks, or Showers–When the drain pipe from a tub, sink, or shower becomes clogged, use a plunger first. The rubber cup of the plunger should cover the drain opening and the water should come well up over the cup edge. Working the plunger up and down rhythmically 10 to 20 times in succession will build up pressure in the pipe and do more good than sporadic plunges. If there is an over–flow outlet, plug it with a piece of old cloth. When working on a double sink, be sure to close the other drain.

If the plunger does not work, use a plumber's snake. Turn the handle of the snake in the same direction when removing it as you did when inserting it. This will keep any matter attached to the snake from coming loose before it is removed.

If the drain can be partly opened with the plunger or snake, boiling water (140 degrees F for plastic pipe) may complete the job. If not, you can open the trap under the fixture.

Prevention–Ordinary washing soda (not baking soda) added to a drain on a regular basis will help to keep it clear of the grease from soap and cooking utensils. Run hot water through the drain, turn off the water, add 3 table–spoons of washing soda, and follow it with just enough hot water to wash it down the drain opening. Let it stand for 15 minutes and run more hot water. To avoid clogged drains or toilets, never pour grease into them.

Driveways, Walks, and Steps — Various materials are used for driveways, walks, and steps. Concrete and asphalt are most common for driveways.  Walks and steps are usually concrete, but they may be made of brick or other material.
Concrete–Your builder has anticipated stresses on concrete driveways, walks, and steps and has provided contraction and expansion joints to minimize cracking. However, cracking is one of the characteristics of concrete, and a method of entirely eliminating cracks has not yet been discovered. Ordinarily, the cracks are of no serious consequence.

Electrical Receptacles — The wiring in your new home meets the code requirements and safety standards for the normal use of electrical appliances. Ordinarily, small appliances that require personal attendance for their operation may be plugged into any electrical receptacle without fear of overloading a circuit. However, the use of a large appliance or of many small appliances on the same circuit may cause an overload. If a circuit breaker trips frequently, contact a licensed electrical contractor to learn whether additional wiring is needed

Faucets — The faucets in your home will sometimes require repair. The less strain you put on faucets, the less frequently they will need repair.

Aerators — Cleaning the aerators will be your most frequent task in maintaining faucets. An aerator adds air to the water as it leaves the faucet and eliminates splashing. It also reduces water usage, thereby saving you money. Aerators are most common on kitchen faucets, but they are also used for bathroom sinks. To clean an aerator, unscrew it from the mouth of the faucet, remove any deposits, remove and rinse the washers and screens, replace them in their origi­nal order, and put the aerator back on the faucet. The frequency of the need for cleaning will depend on the condition of the water, but generally every 3 or 4 months is adequate.

Leaking — All leaks raise your water bill, and a leaking out-side faucet can cause a damp basement. Leaking faucets generally can be fixed by replacing the washers. Some faucets with single controls for hot and cold water have no washers, but their cartridges, which last longer than washers, must still be changed periodically. Before attempting to repair a faucet, turn off the water at the nearest intake valve. Washers may be obtained at most hardware stores. For cartridges, you may have to go to a plumbing store.
Floors

Floors are usually made of either concrete or wood but may be covered by a wide variety of materials.

Concrete Floors — Concrete floors are generally maintenance free, but they are susceptible to cracking under unusual conditions

Hardwood Floors — The structural lumber in your house has been selected in sizes and grades to provide a safety factor well beyond what is required to carry the load. Some shrinkage may occur in these framing members, but your home has been designed so that any settling will be as even as possible.
As with other building materials, wood may contract or expand with weather changes. It is not affected by heat or cold, but it may shrink under extreme dryness or swell under extreme humidity.

Resilient Floors — Resilient floors include linoleum, asphalt, and rubber. For daily care, remove loose dirt with a broom, dust mop, or vacuum. Wipe up soils immediately, but if a spill or spot dries, remove it with a damp sponge, cloth or mop.
To prolong the period between cleanings, occasionally wipe resilient floors with a damp mop. When floors are dull or cannot be refurbished by mopping, clean them thoroughly with a good detergent, diluted as recommended by the floor manufacturer.

The best polish for most resilient floors is a water emulsion wax. Use either a floor finish or a wax on the clean dry floor. The finishes provide hard films that do not smear but also do not respond to buffing. Waxy polishes leave softer films with slightly lower gloss that can be buffed to restore a shiny appearance. Apply the polish sparingly; use the least amount that can be applied without streaking. Let it dry about 30 minutes before allowing anyone to walk on it. Some porous floors may require two coats, with a buffing after each. About once or twice a year, take off the buildup of old polish or wax with a remover.

Tile Floors — Ceramic tile normally needs only a wipe with a damp cloth or an occasional wet mopping to stay clean and new looking. If necessary, a more thorough cleaning with a detergent or ceramic tile cleaner will remove grime.
To remove particularly heavy accumulations of film from glazed tile, you may need a stiff brush and mild scouring powder. Unglazed tile may be scrubbed or scraped. To clean the joints between tiles, use a fiber brush and a mild cleanser. A special sealer for grout will make it more stain resistant. Staining agents should be mopped up promptly, even though they rarely affect ceramic tile.

Indoor-Outdoor Carpet — Periodic vacuuming will keep indoor–outdoor carpet clean. Spills should be wiped up promptly with a lintless clean white cloth. Stains can be removed before they dry by wiping them with a mild detergent solution and then with clear water.

Grounds — Proper care of the grounds around your house not only can add to its beauty, but it also can protect the structure of the house.

Grading — Your lot and surrounding lots were graded by professional engineers to direct surface water and roof drainage away from your house. Drainage swales or other discharge channels were sized and sloped to accommodate the water runoff and should be kept clear of debris such as leaves, gravel and trash.

Lawn and Plants — Water your new lawn and shrubs often. In the fall of the first year rake the lawn thoroughly, reseed it and add organic fertilizer or manure. Give special attention to bare spots. When watering the lawn, avoid sprinkling painted parts of the house, which can reduce the life expectancy of the paint.

Thermostats — The thermostat (usually located on an inside wall) helps to keep your entire house at a comfortable temperature. Individual room temperatures may be further regulated by adjusting the registers in the various rooms or the dampers in the ducts from the furnace to the registers. If your home is heated by a warm–air system, your thermostat may also contain controls for converting the heating system to the cooling system.
You can significantly reduce your heating bill by lowering the thermostat during the sleeping hours and when your home will be unoccupied for a prolonged period.

Reducing Utility Bills — Your household's lifestyle is the largest single variable that affects your utility bills. Identical homes on the same street may have utility bills that vary by 100 percent. By living "smarter" in your new home, you can maximize the benefits from insulation and other energy saving features your builder has installed.
Common sense activities-such as the following–can produce substantial savings:

• Closing the windows and doors when the heating/ cooling system is working;
• Not running the dryer, stove, or oven on .a hot summer day;
• Adjusting thermostat settings to 68°F (or lower) in the winter and to 75° F (or higher) in the summer;
• Closing the drapes or curtains on hot days when the sun shines into your home.

Think about the way you live in your home and look for ways to improve the efficiency of all the systems. Remember that in the summer, part of the heat removed from the home by the air-conditioning system is generated inside by lights, appliances, and people. Also, during the heating season, the sun can warm the inside of the house even on cold days and take part of the load off the furnace if you open drapes on the sunny side of the house.
Plumbing
The plumbing in your house was installed by a professional and generally should need only minimum maintenance if you care for it properly. If any problem arises, attend to it promptly to prevent a bigger and often more costly problem!

Intake Valves — All members of your household should become familiar with the various water intake valves in your plumbing system. Label each one with a shipping or luggage tag. You will rarely need to use them, but in the event of an emergency or if you need to make minor repairs, they will be easy to locate. Intake valves for toilets are usually under the water chamber. Those for sinks are usually under the sink, while the main intake valve is usually near the point at which the water enters the house.

Leaks — Copper pipes should last the lifetime of a house, but if a joint should loosen, it will need to be resoldered–a job requiring an acetylene torch and best left to a plumber. Plastic pipe should also last the lifetime of the house, and a loose joint should likewise be repaired by a plumber.

If your washing machine, dishwasher, or other water-using appliance appears to leak, first check to see that the trap through which it drains is completely open. Some–times a partially clogged drain can cause an overflow within the appliance

(see also "Drains").

Noisy Pipes–Noise in the pipes can be caused by a variety of reasons. Among the most common are a worn washer, a loose part in a faucet, or steam in the hot water pipe. The condition causing noisy pipes should be corrected promptly because sometimes the noise is accompanied by vibration. A strong vibration can cause the fittings to loosen and leak (see also "Bathtubs, Sinks, and Showers," "Drains," "Faucets," and "Hot Water Heaters").

Ranges, Ovens, and Broilers
Many ovens and broilers, both built-in and floor models, have self–cleaning cycles or clean themselves as they are used. Others must be cleaned in the conventional manner. The outside of your stove, oven, or broiler can be cleaned with a nonabrasive cleaner such as baking soda sprinkled on a damp cloth or sponge. Or the manufacturer may make a special appliance cleaner that both cleans and protects against stains. If your burner panel or oven front is stainless steel, you may want to use a stainless steel cleaner on it. Never use harsh abrasive cleansers on the outside of stoves, ovens, or broilers.
Do not let the oven go too long between cleanings. A lightly soiled oven can be cleaned with a solution of 1/4 cup baking soda to 1 quart of water. Rubbing with a paste of baking soda and water may be necessary for some spots. A heavily soiled oven may require a commercial oven cleaner. Choose one that is noncorrosive and nontoxic and follow directions and cautions closely.

Electric — An electric stove will usually have a separate circuit. If your range fails to work, check the proper circuit breaker.

Gas — If the burners of your stove, oven, or broiler fail to light, check to see that the pilot light is lit. If it is, the burners may be clogged and should be cleaned. If they are remov­able, the burners can be soaked dean in a solution of washing soda, but do not soak them in an aluminum pan. A wire brush or thin stiff wire may be helpful in removing burned food particles from the holes in the gas burners. When using the wire, be careful not to push the material farther into the holes. If you suspect that gas is leaking, turn off the main valve (near the meter) and call the gas company immediately. Warning: Do not light matches or smoke.

Hoods — Range hoods need to have their filters cleaned or changed periodically. For location and directions, consult your instruction manual. Fan motors should be oiled periodically.

Microwave Ovens — Follow safety instructions and general instructions for use in your owner’s manual. Since some containers and utensils can permanently damage micro-wave ovens, make sure that all utensils used in your oven are labeled "suitable for microwaving."
You can remove some spatters and drips from the oven's interior with a paper towel or damp cloth. Greasy spatters require a sudsy cloth and then a rinse with a damp cloth. Never use a commercial oven cleaner on any part of your microwave oven. Do not use abrasives such as cleaning powders or steel and plastic pads on your oven door. They will mar the surface. For exterior maintenance, wipe the case and control panel with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly. Do not use cleaning sprays, large amounts of soap and water, abra­sives, or sharp objects on the panel.
The cord may be washed with a damp or sudsy cloth if necessary, but be sure to rinse and dry it thoroughly before plugging the cord into the outlet.

Smoke Detectors — If your new home is equipped with a smoke detector, certain basic procedures will ensure that it functions properly in an emergency. Carefully review the manufacturer's literature to familiarize yourself with the unit. Smoke detectors are either battery operated or connected to your home's electrical system. Most battery–operated detectors have a method of warning the homeowner when the bat­tery is low (for instance, a warning light or a gentle noise). Once triggered, some smoke detectors will continue to sound until a reset button is pushed. Other types will stop automatically when smoke is cleared from the chamber. Check the manufacturer's literature to see which type you have so that you may act accordingly if the detector is accidentally triggered. Periodically test the detector to see if it is working properly.

Different types of detectors will require different care. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for periodic maintenance. Such maintenance may include replacing the light bulbs, replacing the batteries, vacuuming the unit inside and out, and cleaning it with a cotton swab and alcohol.

Toilettes — Never flush down the toilet materials such as hair, grease, lint, diapers, sanitary products, and rubbish. Such waste stops up the toilet and sanitary sewer lines (for unclogging a toilet, see "Drains").

Cleaning — A variety of commercial cleaners are made especially for toilets. Use them according to the manufacturer's directions, but do not mix them or use them with household bleach or any other cleaning product. And never use them in anything but the toilet.

Leaks — If the water chamber appears to leak, the water may only be condensation forming on the outside of the tank and dripping to the floor.  If water leaks into the bowl through the overflow pipe, try bending the rod so that the float will be closer to the bottom of the tank. flush the toilet, and if it still leaks, the inlet valve washer probably needs to be replaced. If the water trickles into the bowl but is not coming through the overflow pipe, it is coming through the flush ball valve. The rods between the ball valve and the flushing handle may need aligning so that the ball will drop straight down after the handle has been pushed. A worn ball valve or dirt or rust on the ball seat will let water leak into the bowl. If the ball valve or ball seat are dirty or rusty, clean them. If the ball is worn, replace it.

Trimmings and Moldings — Trimmings and moldings, such as baseboard quarter–round, may separate from the floor, leaving a small space that will catch dust and dirt. This separation is part of the normal process of settling and shrinking in your home. Loosening the quarter-round or other trim and renailing it in its proper position will remedy the problem. If a small separation occurs at corners or other seams, it can be patched with wood filler; however, sometimes further settling will bring the pieces together. The filler can be stained or painted to match the molding. A thin piece of cardboard or heavy paper slipped under the molding will protect the floor or rug while you are painting.

Walls and Ceilings — Your house has two types of walls: bearing and nonbearing. Nonbearing walls may be altered without fear of struc­tural damage, but alteration of a bearing wall must be done carefully to avoid reducing its bearing capacity. All exterior walls are bearing walls. All ceilings are essentially the same in structure, but they are made of a variety of materials.

Interior Plaster and Gypsum Wallboard — Regardless of whether the interior walls of your house are plaster or gypsum wallboard, they should last for the life of your house without undue maintenance. In unusual cases, such as extreme shrinking in framing boards, minor cracks may appear in the plaster. No repairs should be attempted until you redecorate the room. At that time, fill the cracks with spackling compound (available from any paint store), smooth it out with fine sandpaper, and then redecorate the entire surface. Except in very unusual conditions, cracks should not reappear. To prevent cracks wider than half an inch from reopening, apply the spackling compound, then cover the crack with a strip of fiberglass mesh made for this purpose, cover the mesh with another thin layer of spackling compound, feather the edges well, and sand smooth.  Sometimes normal shrinking will cause nails to pop from wallboard. The framing boards and the wallboard shrink away from the nail and leave it sticking out beyond the surface of the wallboard. Popped nails do not alter the strength of the wall, and they should be left alone until you redecorate. Then they should be reset, respackled, and repainted with the rest of the wall.
Unusual abrasions may scuff or indent the surface of plaster or gypsum walls. If this occurs, fill the indentation with two or three applications of joint cement used for drywall taping. Smudges or spots on interior stucco finish may be removed by rubbing it with a fine grade sandpaper (size 00).

Interior Paint and Wallpaper — The interior walls and ceilings of your new home should give you long service if properly cared for. Consult your paint and wallpaper dealer for the correct cleaning compound for painted sur­faces and wallpaper. Your dealer can also assist you in choosing from hundreds of possible paint colors and wall–paper patterns when you wish to redecorate or make color changes.
If paint starts to blister or peel, repaint or touch it up immediately to prevent the problem from spreading. If the problem persists, look for the cause, such as moisture penetration through overhead joints or finishes.

Water Heaters — All water heaters, whether gas, electric or oil, have a control mechanism to govern water temperature. The dial should be set at approximately 120 degrees F or on normal. Your household’s individual preferences should determine the hot water temperature. The lower the temperature setting, the less fuel you will use, which could produce considerable savings on your utility bills. Additional savings will result from putting an insulation jacket on the water heater. On gas heaters be sure the air intake is not obstructed. Avoid storing anything near the heater that obstructs the flow of air or creates a fire hazard.
Water heaters normally collect small quantities of scale and dirty water. To remove this material, first shut the water intake valve and turn off the power source for your water heater (gas, electric, etc.) Failure to turn off the power source could cause the heating element to burn out. Then open the valve at the bottom of the heater and completely drain the tank. Consult the manufacturer’s literature for more specific information. In localities with especially hard water, a water softener will reduce the frequency of cleaning.
Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve–Every 3 or 4 months you should check the temperature and pressure relief valve on your water heater to be sure the lever works properly. If the thermostat should fail to operate properly, this valve would prevent a dangerous increase in water temperature and pressure.
Noisy Pipes-If you hear noises in the pipes when the hot water is turned on, it may mean that air or steam is in the pipes. The steam may result from the water being too hot. Reducing the temperature of the water may help.

Windows — Your windows may be framed in a wide variety of materials, including aluminum, steel, wood, solid vinyl, and vinyl–clad wood. Wood frames should be painted whenever the house or trim on the house is painted (every 4 to 6 years). Aluminum, vinyl, and vinyl-clad wood do not need paint–ing. Steel frames should be painted with a rust–inhibiting paint. Aluminum can be left to age to a uniform gray. The oxidation (or graying) will protect it from the elements. If you prefer to maintain the brighter new look, a coat of wax will work well. To restore aluminum that has turned gray, polish it with steel wool. However, prevention is easier than polishing.

Skylights — Skylights may leak if there is a break in the seal. When your roof is being inspected for general mainte–nance, have your seals, caulking, and flashings around sky–lights inspected for any cracks or interruptions.

Cleaning — If the outside of a window is extremely dirty, use a piece of crumpled newspaper to wash the glass with a solution of equal parts vinegar and water or 3 tablespoons of denatured alcohol per quart of warm water. You may also use a commercial glass cleaner. Lightly soiled windows will usually respond to a solution of 1 cup of vinegar to 1 gallon of water. Apply the cleaning solution with a sponge or tintless cloth, and dry the glass with a chamois, a lintless cloth, or paper towels. A rubber squeegee will speed the drying process. The window frames can be cleaned with a mild detergent solution. Most stains on marble sills can be removed by scouring the marble with a paste of baking soda and water.

Screens — Wire screening may be shellacked or varnished’ every 3 or 4 years or coated with boiled linseed oil annually. The screens should be thoroughly washed and rinsed before either is applied. Fiberglass screening needs no preservative.

Minor Repairs — Wood windows may need new glazing compound occasionally. Remove cracked, loose, or dried–up glazing compound, and clean out dust and dirt with a clean dry brush. Replace any missing glazier’s points (the small pieces of metal that hold the glass in place). Roll some fresh glazing compund between your hands to stretch it out. Fit it against the glass and the wood with your fingers and smooth it with a putty knife. Oil paint can be mixed with the compound to color it, or it can be painted. For a broken window, remove the remaining glass, all old glaz–ing compound, and glazier’s points. (Warning: Wear gloves!) For a broken window that is not framed in wood, consult a supplier for advice on replacement.
If a wood window does not slide easily, rubbing the channel with a piece of paraffin should help. An old candle will do. The same treatment will work for sliding wooden closet doors. For metal doors and windows, use a silicone lubricant available in aerosol form.

Miscellaneous
Household Tools and Supplies
Tool Kit–You will need a few basic tools and supplies for everyday use in keeping your home in top shape. A sug­gested list includes:

• Medium–sized adjustable wrench
• Standard hand pliers
• Screwdrivers: small, medium, large with standard and Phillips heads
• Claw hammer
• Hand saw
• Assorted nails, brads, screws, nuts, and washers
• Sturdy penknife
• Plane.

Other tools can be rented or purchased as needed.

Fire Extinguisher — Every homeowner should buy at least one fire extinguisher. Each member of the family should be familiar with its location and operation. Have it checked annually to be sure it functions properly and is fully charged. Be sure you and your family know how to turn off the electricity, gas, and water in the event of an emergency. Some types of fire extinguishers should not be used for electrical fires.

First Aid Kit — Keep a home first aid kit or first aid materials in a convenient location. Buy and keep with it a booklet on first aid and home safety.

Duplicate Keys — Have duplicate keys made and keep them in convenient places so that small children who lock them-selves in the bathroom or other rooms can be freed promptly. When you take a vacation, leave a key with a trusted neighbor. If you forget to attend to something before you leave or if an emergency arises, your neighbor might be able to take care of it.

Annual Checklist

• Check the condition of glazing compound, caulking, and exterior paint. Replace or paint as needed (spring).
• Exchange glass and screens in storm doors and windows (autumn and spring).
• Check for evidence of termites (spring).
• Check interior paint and redecorate when necessary.
• Seed and feed the lawn (spring and/or autumn); plant annuals (spring); do appropriate pruning of perennials (some in spring, others in summer or autumn); rake and compost leaves; mulch perennials that need winter protection.
• If you have a separate cooling system, clean and change filters as the manufacturer recommends or once a month.
• Oil motors of appliances as directed in instruction manuals.
• Check cords and plugs of all electrical appliances for wear. If necessary, have them repaired or replaced.
• Test your smoke detector for proper operation. Be sure to clean the unit (with a vacuum or swab), clean the filter (if any), and replace batteries and light bulbs when necessary.
• For security systems, check that the alarm and circuits are in working order; inspect the sensors one by one; and check primary and backup batteries once a month.
• Inspect all doors and windows for proper operation and a tight fit. Clean all window tracks, clean and adjust the door thresholds, and check the weather stripping on windows and doors. Preventing unwanted outside air from leaking into your home will reduce your energy bills.
• Make a careful safety inspection of your home, inside and out, to seek out problem areas before someone is injured.
• Check stairs, steps, and ladders for broken or hazardous areas that could cause an accident. Check handrails and railings for sturdiness and reliability. Test all the lights located in infrequently used spaces to be sure they will work if they are ever needed.
• Regularly check all connections to your electrical system to correct any possible hazards. Replace frayed electrical cords and do not overload extension cords.

Note: Make a detailed checklist for all inspections and repairs required in your home. Leave spaces so that you can record the items as completed. An example of such a list is included in the back of this booklet.